⌚ Watch Out
Some more unusual and unique analog watches, from microfluidics to my first Apple watch... In the first photo:
1) Top left: my first Omega, and aesthetically the most elegant to my eye, with a central co-axial titanium tourbillon. It’s the De Ville Tourbillon Master Chronometer, Serial Number 2
2) Top center: The Ressence Type 1 Slim HOD3 in titanium, one of 20 made. The entire face is flat and rotates while the flat sub-dials rotate as well, all driven by magnets from below and immersed in a refractive-matched fluid so it looks like a 2D sheet of paper. A series of bellows on the backside allow for temperature variation of the fluid without any bubbles.
3) Top right: HYT Moon Runner Ghost, a crazy engineering marvel with fluidic time and a hand-painted moon sphere. Two immiscible fluids — one black and one glow-in-the-dark white — circulate through a glass capillary, driven by a pair of piston bellows on the backside. They meet at 2pm in this photo. One of the bellows incorporates thermal compensation to maintain the precision of the fluid boundary as temperatures fluctuate. The mechanism advances the liquid just 1.5 microns per minute before completing a full circuit of the dial every 12 hours and resetting (retrograde). Unlike prior HYT models, the Ghost is monochromatic with a beautiful moon. Painted entirely by hand under UV light over the course of a full day, it displays the current lunar phase through a central aperture. Built from titanium and carbon fiber, the watch is quite light. But it’s also large for those like me with a petite wrist. I bought it from Pharrell Williams, one of 15 made.
4) Middle left: A unique 1 of 1 from Mont Blanc, made of platinum in 2009 for a charity auction. A unique design element: the two chronograph discs rotate instead of the hands.
5) Center: A Mad Mad Watch from MB&F, this particular design was a unique variant never released to the public. Instead of putting the automatic self-winding rotor blades on the backside, they spin madly on top with any movement of the wrist. The time is indicated by a rotating circular band that runs the outer circumference of the watch.
6) Middle right: Breguet Marine Chronograph, the most functional of the batch, with easy-to-read hands in the traditional Breuget style. Founded in 1775, Breuget invented the self-winding watch and was a favorite of Marie Antoinette and Napoleon, who had four and brought them into battle.
7) Bottom left: Ulysse Nardin Blast Skeleton, Serial Number 2, a memory of a trip we took to New York’s Central Park.
8) Bottom center: This is a very silly watch. I witnessed a Jacob & Co. Astronomia sell in a charity auction for $1M and marveled at its unique design with tourbillon, watch face, rotating gemstone, and rotating sphere for seconds out at the ends of four separate shafts. And now, Facebook served me an ad for a similar-looking knockoff… costing just $499. How could anyone assemble a copy for so little? While this GEYA Planetary Flywheel Mechanical Watch has “mechanical” in the title, it’s a bit misleading. The tourbillon, seconds sphere and rotating gem are all mechanically driven like the expensive original, but the watch face on the left post is entirely disconnected. It is an electronic quartz watch hanging out there with a battery that’s impossible to replace! It’s wild how it looks so similar at a distance.
9) Bottom right: My first Apple watch! It was an employee recognition award from 1994, the year I worked there. The backside is engraved with “Golden Apple Club FY’94”
⌚ Watching you watching me
I love skeleton watches that show the inner clockwork and those with unique takes on timekeeping. Here is another eclectic batch, from L to R:
1) The white Omega x Swatch Moonshine Gold. It is the first and only watch that shows the phases of Earth as seen by an astronaut on the moon (soon to be relevant again). The Earth goes through phases, in reverse of the moon phases. So, when you have a new Moon, you have a “full Earth” as seen on the watch face here. And for an observer at Moon Base Alpha, the Earth will always be in roughly the same spot in the sky, neither rising nor setting… and the dark part of Earth will have the faint illumination of Moonshine (just as the dark part of the moon gets a bit of Earthshine making it visible during a new moon phase). The watch is made of a light bioceramic with an homage to Apollo 10’s Snoopy, and each watch has a unique moon “snowflake” design.
2) Martin Braun EOS: A unique design that shows the time of sunrise and sunset. For a mechanical watch, this is particularly tricky, using two crossed titanium hands on cams customized for the latitude of the owner (the googly eyes at the bottom). The sunset/sunrise dial range also varies by latitude (with little change at the equator), and the feature will not be accurate for travel from home.
3) Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Maillechort. Various assemblages, like the flying constant force tourbillon and power reserve indicator float like islands on the face, connected by a hidden gear train below. Like several of their watches, the design required the use of MEMS silicon escapement. It is serial #2 of 50, and the first sold in America. Made of Maillechort, a rare copper alloy, white gold and a sapphire glass box (which looks very cool from the sides).
4) Ulysse Nardin Freak. It was my first love in unique complicated watches. The watch mechanism is built into the minute hand which drives a small gear at the tip of the hand that runs along the inner circumference of the dial, rotating it around and driving the hour hand below. Sleek design with no crowns protruding from the side. It was my 20th anniversary gift at DFJ. Serial #13.
5) Breguet Tradition Chronograph, a skeleton with a symmetric design front and back for the watch + stopwatch. Founded in 1775, Breuget invented the self-winding watch and was a favorite of Marie Antoinette and Napoleon, who had four and brought them into battle.
Next Row:
6) BVLGARI Octo Finissimo, super thin skeleton in titanium. It’s probably my lightest watch. I bought it with a friend while travelling overseas… Watches can serve as memorable mementos in time.
7) Carl F. Bucherer. My first skeleton, also thin, purchased in the late 80’s and I remember negotiating a discount from the store in the Stanford Shopping Center. Bucherer AG was acquired by Rolex in 2023.
8) Vacheron Constantin Régulateur Chronometer, my first from them. I have always admired the elegance of their design. The minute hand is central, hours on top, and the dual-time face (left) is easily adjustable by the push-button for travel to different time zones.
9) TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph. I like the pink flair in this edition, and it also serves as a travel memory. It’s a skeleton watch, but with black-on-black titanium, it does not show well in the photo.
10) Harry Winston Perpetual Calendar. It has a moon phase and retrograde calendar that adjusts month and day for leap years. I am not sure about the art deco design though.
More in the post below.